The Potting Method For Orchids – Cattleya And Oncidiums
In the 1970′s we use to import orchid plants like Cattleya’s and oncidiums from the jungle. Because these plants had no roots, their water was largely depleted, and needed to be syringed several times a day. Under this treatment the bulbs and leaves become plump again. We thought it might be a long time before we would ever see any evidence of growth, but within two weeks some were producing roots and the eyes were swelling.
As soon as the roots touched the osmunda fiber we planted in, we began watering in the pots, just as you do for established plants – enough to keep the fiber damp but not wet. Syringing also must be kept up for some time, for even when the roots begin to penetrate the fiber, they do not have enough surface to absorb all the water necessary for the plant.
Almost all these plants developed three and four leads, though we expected only one, and many of the new leads are strong and fat, a good indication that they would bloom the following winter. These plants had young growths when collected miraculously came through fumigation unharmed. I remember two which in only a few months had full sized large sheaths, and one has already bloomed.
When potting was delayed. It was our practice, when plants could not be potted right away, to hang them upside down in an airy, shaded place and to syringe them frequently. Some growers even advocated leaving them this way until new growth started, though you would have to be careful to pot them before growth is too far along.
New leads follow their nature and grow upward, which means that when the plants are righted the leads point downward, straight into the osmunda or some other potting media – in fact use used a lava rock type mix. Potting at this stage damages the new growths and sets plants back. Care must also bo taken to syringe frequently enough to keep the plants from drying any further. Indeed, it ought to be generous enough to allow bulbs and leaves to plump up.
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